In the last few sessions, we discussed the benefits wine
brands enjoy from offering ultra-premium, premium and budget wines in their
collection. Over the quarter, we have also tasted a great variety of wines from
both ends of the price spectrum. They have mostly been great, but I have a
dirty secret. On average, I have preferred the cheaper wines served. On occasion,
I have utterly detested the more expensive wine offered. Yet there were other
classmates that found some of these expensive wines the best they had ever
drunk. Apart from being a marker for my lack of taste I was curious about this
difference in opinion and stumbled upon a 2008 study that looked into whether
more expensive wines were more well-received, and by whom (http://www.wine-economics.org/aawe/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Vol.3-No.1-2008-Evidence-from-a-Large-Sample-of-Blind-Tastings.pdf).
Across 6000 blind tastings of good-quality wines, the researchers
found that the average individual
enjoyed more expensive wines slightly less. However, individuals with
wine training appreciated the expensive wines more. The researchers concluded that
“non-expert wine consumers should not anticipate greater enjoyment of the
intrinsic qualities of a wine simply because it is expensive or appreciated by
experts.”
I have not yet found any peer-reviewed research to explain
this phenomenon. However, my personal theory revolves around a wine’s “complexity”.
Forgive the gross oversimplification, but expensive wines tend to be more
complex and complex wines tend to be less easy to drink. A wine enthusiast may
be able to appreciate and draw pleasure from the complexity of a fine wine. A
wine novice like me simply wants to find something nice to go along with his or
her carbonara.
Go figure… maybe ignorance really is bliss for the wallet.
Drink what you like.
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