Delmas’ paper on the taste of organic
wine had mentioned the fact that “A winery’s decision to become eco-certified
is influenced, in part, by whether its nearby neighbors are eco-certified. The
more of its neighbors are eco-certified, the more likely it is to begin
eco-certification.”
I was surprised by Ivo’s
clear confirmation of this. His grandfather had renounced to use “organic” on
the label because of the fear of retaliation from other non-organic wineries. I
am wondering why would neighboring wineries be hostile towards an organic /
biodynamic producer. It would be interesting to know how the social pressure changed
in France, from against organic (I suppose France would be similar to US) to in
favor of biodynamic, in order to assess whether a similar change could occur
in California.
My second point is
related to how time could be the cardinal influence in the decision to turn
organic / biodynamic. Studies and Ivo himself have confirmed that prolonged
usage of soil through a non sustainable / natural agriculture ultimately reduces
terrain quality and consequently the quality of the grapes.
It is no mystery that grapes have been
cultivated in France long before than in California, so the degrading condition
of the soil might have moved French producers towards organic / biodynamic
methods in order to preserve the quality of the wine. If this is the case, more
Californian producers would turn organic in the future, when the soil of non organic
wineries will start to lose nutrition (probably at a faster rate due to
intensive agricultural practices).
Sebastiano - I had a similar question about your second point about the reduction of terrain quality in places that have engaged in non sustainable practices like mono-cropping being a driver for turning organic and/or biodynamic. I question the degree to which the success of biodynamic farming practices is related to the intentionality, care, and sustainable practices that biodynamic farming promotes versus the woo-woo practices used to poke fun at the practice. Perhaps there is something to planting manure-filled horns in a full moon, but I am more inclined to believe the more of the improved soil / grape quality is driven by increased quality of attention... Would love to hear others thoughts on this!
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