Monday, January 23, 2017

Put a cork in it (or don't)

For better or worse, technology and artistry are often viewed as mutually exclusive. In some cases, like biodynamic farming, that tension manifests itself in relatively benign ways. I don't think it's a coincidence that the world's top luxury wine producers choose to emphasize the ceremonial aspects of biodynamism over the more technical ones when discussing their craft (why not call it a process?). But are there instances in which worshiping at the altar of tradition compromises quality?

Research going back to the 1980's has shown that the use of screw caps imparts quality benefits to wine in several scenarios. For one, they're better at keeping oxygen out of the bottle than their more porous counterpart (the cork) -- a plus for "simpler" wines and wines consumed young (NPR, 2014). For another, they prevent something called "cork taint," a foul-smelling chemical reaction caused by bits of cork falling into the wine.

So why aren't screw caps standard, at least for the many varieties of wine that aren't served by oxygenation in the bottle? As with many things, the answer is obvious but the solution is elusive. Corks are an enduring sign of quality, and wine is an industry steeped in ceremony and tradition. People find the act of uncorking their wine (or seeing it presented) emotionally satisfying. 

I raise this issue not to solve screw top wine adoption, specifically, but to illustrate that anyone hoping to apply technological innovation in the wine industry cannot neglect artistry if she hopes to make an impact in the higher quality segments. The question is, how can one marry (or even mask) scientific rigor with ceremony, as in biodynamism? 

4 comments:

  1. Hey Alex, agree with you fully that screw caps make so much sense for wines meant to be consumed young. But disagree (only) slightly with the root cause - I think it's more that old habits are hard to change! From what I have heard, wine drinkers in the old world just associate corks with better wine, and screw caps with "some newfangled New World wines"; while newer wine drinkers seem to take to screw caps well.

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  2. I can totally confirm Jules' point. In the old world (except for Germany) very few wines have screw caps, and those that do are usually low price - low quality option (according to my experience). This leads an old-world consumer to doubt of the quality of a wine that is bottled with a screw cap. This applies to me too: even though I have read that screw caps are better for quality, I’m still biased towards the cork and very rarely I buy wines with screw caps (and usually only if there is no similar alternative with a cork).

    One new trend in the old world is to use “synthetic” corks. They certainly look traditional, and it is only possible to find out whether the cork is synthetic or not after having opened the bottle. After having done some research, it seems that they do have their problems (most notably oxygen infiltration and giving a plastic aroma to the wine), however, it appears that they are more appealing to old world wine drinkers.
    I don't recall seeing any in the US for now, so it would be interesting to experiment with them and see new-world drinkers' reaction to them.

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  3. Great post Alex.

    It's funny, in Australia and New Zealand you see screw caps everywhere. Most of the winemakers I have spoken to there say the benefits (prevention of corkage) far outweigh any loss perceived sophistication. My sense is that most Australian/NZ consumers have been trained to no longer differentiate between the two.

    I would like to offer an alternative perspective as to why cork still persists in most of the world.

    I've heard from a number of sources that the cork industry has been very effective at running campaigns targeting wine producers and consumers.

    100percentcork.org with over 90,000 Facebook likes is a prime example. The campaign urges readers to take the 100 Percent Cork Pledge. Pledge names are added to petitions sent to major retailers.

    Similarly, leading cork manufacturer Corticeira Amorin has commissioned and heavily promoted several reports, including a well sited one by PWC, that the effects of cork tainting are over hyped. These studies are usually used to pressure winemakers to stick with cork. Of course, as you mentioned Alex, there are lots of counter arguments to these reports.

    I see the persistence of cork as a triumph of great marketing.

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  4. This is an interesting discussion. If one believes the quoted studies somewhere between 3-8% of wine bottles stoppered with corks are tainted. That is a very significant loss of product someone in the value chain has to pay for to protect tradition (it is unclear to me who actually bears the expense). It would also be interesting to discover the cost differential between corks (which would seem to be more expensive) versus screw caps (I tried unsuccessfully to find this info). At some point you would think that economics would trump (no pun intended) tradition.

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