Monday, January 23, 2017

Made With Organic Grapes: A TJ's Tasting

Intrigued by last week's dive into organic and biodynamic wines and questions about its perceived and actual quality, I conducted a tasting with classmate Natalie Butler to see what two average consumers (read: not Wine Spectator critics) thought.

Our wines all came from Trader Joe's and were at or under $8/bottle. While we recognize that wines at this price point are likely inconsistent in quality, we were constricted by budget and figured that there has probably not been much research done on <$8/bottle Trader Joe's wine so as least ours would be original.


Trader Joes' organic options were limited, but I did my best in purchasing to control for as many variables as possible: all of our wine pairs were produced in the same year, in the same region, and were of the same varietal. Variables that we could not account for included (but were not limited to) quantity produced and length of certification experience. Also, the Bonterra Sauvignon Blanc was a blend of 55% grapes from Mendocino Country and 45% from Lake County, while the grapes from which its non-organic counterpart - Castle Rock - was composed came exclusively from Mendocino County.

Overall: The organic wines, especially the reds, had much less intense bouquets, but packed just as much if not more flavor than their non-organic counterparts. The organic wines often carried more noticeable notes of wood, grass or minerality than the non-organic wines. However, since we did not conduct this test blind, the latter interpretation could be due to confirmation or other biases.


Castle Rock Sauvignon Blanc (Non-Organic) vs. Bonterra Sauvignon Blanc (Organic)
Produced in Mendocino County, 2015

Natalie and I both felt that there was not much to the Castle Rock Sauvignon Blanc. The color was off white, almost blending into her Moleskin paper. We tasted grapefruit, honeydew, and were not surprised to see pineapple in the tasting notes on the back of the bottle when we snuck a peek at the end of this tasting course. Though this wine was smooth, we described it at first blush as mellow and underwhelming as far as Sauvignon Blancs go. The Bonterra smelled like a classic sauvignon blanc, but was surprisingly sweet as opposed to citrus, with flavors of grapefruit, kiwi and grass coming forward. Though neither wine was especially remarkable, we both preferred the Bonterra.

La Granja Tempranillo (Non-Organic) vs. Albero Tempranillo (Organic)
Produced in Spain (exact region unclear), 2015

We were both immediately struck by the difference in intensity of the bouquet of these wines. The Albero (Organic) appeared very light and was much less aromatic than the La Granja. We both described its taste as "rainy" and "clean," without any spice, and with a long and bright finish. By contrast, the La Granja's taste matched its scent and was less surprising, but equally soft and juicy, with hints of tobacco and coffee. Natalie preferred the La Granja's smooth drinkability, while I preferred the Albero's surprising depth of flavor.



Black Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon (Non-Organic) vs. Rare Earth Cabernet Sauvignon (Organic)
Produced in Napa Valley, 2014

The Black Mountain cab tasted as we would have expected of a cab - smooth and bright, with immediate recognition of plum, black cherry, vanilla and anise, a bit of either oak or cedar, noticeable tannins and soft acidity. The Rare Earth, on the other hand, was a huge (and welcome) surprise after a very subtle bouquet. Despite its underwhelming aroma, its taste was intense. This cab was smooth,  very jammy, woody, creamy, crispy, fruity and spicy all at once -- our clear favorite of the two.


It's fascinating that consumers will pay a premium for organic meat, vegetables and fruit, but this behavior does not translate to wine. I wonder whether this is because wine is a "sin" product, and just as organic candy never took off, consumers think to themselves that if they are going to consume something "sinful," they may as well "do it right." Either way, after this experiment, I will be taking advantage of higher quality at a lower price point and will be filling my next basket with organic wines.

Cheers!


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